ALGARVE IN THE WINTER
How can you not fall in love with Portugal? In my ten plus years travel writing for major daily newspapers in Canada, I never had the chance to visit the region. So instead, I went on my own dime as a typical tourist and now we are heading back for our fourth trip, staying for just under three months.
Understanding and respecting the country you visit is always important and we try our best to learn a bit of the language and explore the history, food and stunning architecture as well as its natural beauty.
My job and your mission – should you choose to accept it – is to make the practical side of your visit a little easier. In this page, I am focusing on the winter season in the Algarve providing honest opinions on some of the basics – dining, sites, accommodations with some hidden gems. One of the biggest questions is where to stay. We have travelled along most of the coast, so I will highlight some of our favorite places and experiences.
Starter tips:
A simple thank you goes a long way: Obrigada (female speaking) Obrigado (male speaking)
Petiscos not Tapas: In Spain these small plates are called tapas but in Portugal they are Petiscos.
Comfy shoes: Leave those stilettos at home or least save them for a fancy night out where you aren’t walking to the restaurant. There are many hills and uneven roads that require appropriate footwear.
Prepare for the weather: You can get a sunburn even in January and need a coat at night. There can be downpours, or you can be strolling in a tee and shorts on the beach. Just like weather channels, no one gets it right so don’t ask what the weather will be – just bring a variety of clothing (or leave room in your bag to buy some here and help the local economy.)
Okay let’s start talking about the different places to stay in the Algarve. The one thing I can assure you is everyone has their own opinions so this is just mine. Recommendations are based on places we personally experienced and don’t come near to covering all the wonderful restaurants and attractions that make the Algarve so special.
LAGOS
Lagos is a strong contender for the number one spot in my heart. Not only does it have beautiful beaches but its charming old town is filled with quaint shops, bustling restaurants and you can often hear the soft sounds of guitar from street performers who lull you into a very happy state of mind.
I admit that discovering Mar Restaurant in our first half hour was a good start. About a 15 minute walk from old town (up a hill but manageable), we saw a restaurant sign so decided to investigate. It was lunchtime and we were hungry. But this was as much a feast for the eyes as for the palate. The patio was perched over a cliff offering stunning views of the clear blue waters and a sandy beach. It became a sport watching people arrive with equally shocked looks. Of course, there were several locals who seemed more nonchalant about the magical setting. The vibe was relaxed, not a place to be if you are in a hurry. Sautéed prawns, shredded black pork tacos (called the Conchita Kill Bill Trilogy), seafood risotto were just a small sampling of the menu options. There was also a decent and reasonably priced wine list as well as cocktails. Let’s just say Lagos started off on the right foot.
We really started to feel connected when we discovered a wine club. I worked in the wine industry in Niagara so I was very excited to learn more about Portuguese wines and meet people with the same interest. We now have friends from the club that we continue to communicate with and look forward to seeing on our return trips.
Lagos’ beaches are lovely to walk along but its old town is also a highlight offering more than most other areas of the Algarve. It’s very easy to navigate on foot as its mostly flat (did I mention stairs and I don’t get along!) I can go up them but don’t do well going down. In Lisbon- a beautiful city – I felt I was going to take a header every day due to the steep, uneven stairs. In Lagos, there are interesting shops throughout a maze of easy to manage side streets and a vast selection of great restaurants to keep you satisfied regardless of your culinary preference. There’s a popular square where local entertainers perform for tips. You can grab a glass of very affordable wine or beer and enjoy the moment. If you drop by this winter, you might see me there.
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ACCOMMODATIONS
NH Lagos (formerly Tivoli) – building is very old with some modest rooms in the lower categories but the hotel is full of charm with a cozy nook with a fireplace, two excellent restaurants, live music and a happy hour
Marina Club – close to restaurants, comfortable bar, rooms are modern and some with good views
Lagos Avenida – luxury, expensive, views, rooftop pool
RESTAURANTS
Don Sebastiao’s extensive collection of rare wines
Mar- stunning waterfront view from a cliff
Don Sebastiao – fine dining, traditional Portuguese cuisine and an absolutely spectacular wine cellar
Mosto – heavy focus on wine with variety of tapas options
Quay Bar and Bistro – overlooking Marina de Lagos, great food and service
Patel Velho (in NH Lagos)-authentic, charming interior, excellent food
The Curry Leaf – Indian – very popular, great value and nice ambiance
Black and White Coffee Shop – yummy breakfast/brunch with cool vibe in Old Town
FUN
Terra Doce Wine Club- a dream come true for me. A great place to meet like-minded people and explore the amazing wines of Portugal.
SIDE TRIP
If you decide to do a road trip to the Sagres Fortress, I highly recommend tagging on a visit to Carrapiteira. It’s a fairly short drive to get there but you have to take a side, winding road to the water which looks a bit dodgy. In fact, I was starting to question my husband’s spontaneous decision, until we were finally rewarded with breathtaking views. It was a cloudy day but the overcast sky created a mystical feel which actually enhanced the experience.
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Portimao/Praia da Rocha
The Beach
Everyone talks about the stunning Praia da Rocha beach -and for good reason.
Relaxing with a coffee on a sunny morning, you can soak in the massive shore line, watch the waves roll in and people watch to your heart’s content. It’s what I call “a moment.”
When we travel, people are often too busy taking photos or selfies to actually stop and enjoy what’s right in front of them. Here, it’s easy to take that deep breath and open your eyes to actually see what is in front of you. That tranquility is why I like visiting in the off season when it’s quieter and fewer distractions.
Creaky charm
It’s embarrassing to say that on our first day trip to Portimao we only visited the centre of town and missed this fabulous beach. It was late December and the shopping was great and we found a fabulous restaurant for lunch making the day worthy of a return visit.
So last year we booked for three weeks, staying at the Marina in a one-bedroom apartment. It had a large deck that overlooked the marina and we were in heaven. The beach was about a 3 minute walk away and we must have averaged 20,000 steps a day strolling the boardwalk.
While we enjoyed lunches and afternoon happy hours on our deck, it was initially a bit annoying to hear a creaking sound coming from the Marina. The cause turned out to be one of the older boats that didn’t appear to be tied up properly (or maybe it was haunted). Eventually it became part of our day. “How is creaky doing? We’d ask each other with a laugh. It never did stop creaking but it became part of the atmosphere which in all other aspects was peaceful.
The Stairs and the Strip
The one important thing to know is there are two options if you want to be close to the beach. We chose the Marina because it’s a flat walk and we were in a ground floor apartment with a large pool in the complex.
The busier area is above the beach – the strip. It’s packed with shops, restaurants and bars , some that overlook the water offering spectacular views. It definitely has more options than the beach area which has fewer restaurants open in the winter (some of which were very pricey and quality and service mixed). That said we still found a few lovely places for a sunset drink directly on the beach. While the strip has more options, you better like a lot of stairs because that’s how you access the beach area. There are various entry points, some a little easier but others are very steep with minimal hand rails. I have some balance issues so this was not appealing to me. We did find a way to walk up via a steep hill and that turned out to be our choice of getting up to the action – which we really didn’t need to do that often.
Today we’re all Irish
We didn’t seem to meet people as easily as we did in Lagos, but one exception was St. Patrick’s Day. We ventured out in the afternoon and after hitting a few Irish pubs we landed at Taffy’s Bar and Grill. The staff immediately ushered us in even though it was packed. They managed to squeeze us into a table next to a group that had clearly started the festivities much earlier. It turns out they were fellow Canadians including a lovely lady named Patti (appropriate name for the day) who invited us to join them. Dancing and shenanigans followed. A very fun day.
Taffy’s Bar and Grill – just green and bear it
The wine made me do it – Nito Restaurant
RESTAURANTS
Sanleti Tapas & Vinhos – this was our favorite. Stylish, cozy, fabulous food and service.
Nito -Japan meets Mexico – we had a mix of interesting food. Very funky decor that inspires you to engage in silly photo opps.
NoSoloAgua – international cuisine with a strong focus on sushi. It’s right near the Marina and has a salt water pool, hipster vibe. Pricey but location, location.
Dona Barca – situated in the city of Portimao, this restaurant has been around since 1980 and focuses on fresh fish which is on display on ice as you enter the restaurant. A local favorite. The decor has a charming nautical theme.
FUN
Taffy’s Bar and Grill – St. Patrick’s Day
People watching from a cafe on the beach
Casino
SIDE TRIP
Ferraguda – this quaint village is a very popular destination for tourists looking for a quieter pace. Well worth an afternoon visit if not longer.
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CARVOEIRO
SMILERS BAR IN CARVOEIRO – Oh Canada!
The first time we visited this charming coastal beach town, we stayed at the Tivoli. It was my husband’s birthday and I was putting pressure on the hotel to make sure we had a nice room with a view. They did not disappoint. In fact, there was a cake and bottle of wine waiting for us. Classy!
That afternoon we walked the boardwalk, overlooking the cliffs with photo worthy views of the ocean. In about 20 minutes we were in the charming town.
Even in off season you will not lack options for patio dining with a view.
If you like to cook, you might want to sign up for a cooking class at Restaurent A Vela – located right in town. Restaurant owner Antonia will take you on an unforgettable gastronomical journey featuring authentic Portuguese dishes paired with local wines. Bring your appetite.
To wear off those calories, an option is hiking along the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail but it’s a drive to get there. Alternatively you can just hop on the boardwalk right in town which offers one of the best views anywhere so don’t miss that. Frankly, it’s also fun to walk up and down the streets even if there are a few hills and some uneven areas. After getting in your steps you can just relax with a book at the waterfront. Is it wrong to smile when you think about your friends shivering or shovelling snow back home in Canada when the sun is shining here?
ACCOMODATIONS
Tivoli – the rooms with waterfront views are spectacular and the restaurant and bar also are great places to dine and literally drink in the views.
Quinta do Paraiso – gorgeous villas, some with private heated pools. We stayed here on our second and third trips to the Algarve. The main pool is not open for most of the winter. We enjoyed the privacy and quiet surroundings. It can be a bit of walk into town with some steep areas so not necessarily ideal for those with mobility issues. That said, it’s only five or six euros for an Uber into town and the wood burning fireplaces make even the more modest villas feel very cosy and appealing.
RESTAURANTS
Touriga Wine and Dine – near the top of the strip. A very cool wine bar with delicious tapas options.
Lighthouse Restaurant – it’s a bit farther out of town but, once again, the views make up for it. We just dropped by for a cocktail so didn’t try the food.
Oregano – also a bit outside the city but fine dining, great wine list
Taste – a very popular restaurant in town, Portuguese cuisine. They had live music every Thursday which made it fun but apparently this has been paused for Fall. So check their website for updates.
Gurkha Kitchen – Indian, nice decor and always busy
Trattoria Oliviera – located in the Quinta Do Paraiso resort. Lovely patio – open for Christmas.
FUN
Smilers – for Canadians on Thursdays. Prepare to sing O’Canada at the top of your lungs with more than 100 others on the outdoor patio or crammed inside the bustling bar. Trivia challenge adds to the fun. Inexpensive.
Cafe Fino – not only is it a great brunch place but Sundays they have live music and it’s quirky and fun decor make it a special place. There’s also comfy outdoor patio seats to listen to the music as well.
Carvoeiro Bar – right in town, always busy with indoor and outdoor seating and often live music.
SIDE TRIP
Alte – a charming town with very affordable and authentic food.
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OLHAO
It’s funny how fast an opinion can change.
Olhao is a true fishing village and I almost hesitate to add it to my list so it doesn’t get overrun by people like me. Although it certainly has some tourists it has maintained its local feel, mainly because most of the people in this community actually work and live here.
I must admit that by Day 3, I was feeling like an outsider (which I was). Fortunately, that evening everything changed. Who doesn’t love a jazz bar- especially when it overlooks the water? Cantaloupe was hopping, filled with locals – some who spoke little English – but they were friendly, smiling people and the energy of the place was infectious. We even made a few friends.
The next day we stumbled upon a wine bar (yes you have probably figured out I like wine) that also helped influence my opinion of Olhao. There are many wine bars throughout the Algarve, but Casta Nova is very special. Diogo immediately made us feel welcome and took the time to learn about our preferences before suggesting some Portuguese wines – his suggestions were perfect and I bought a bottle to take home to share with friends. He also makes it fun and proudly showed me some Ontario wines they had featured during a special tasting – thanks to a very successful Toronto restaurant owner who moved to Olhao and offered to share them. If in Olhao, you must stop by this wine bar and support Diogo and his wife Sara who run this fabulous establishment. They host regular tasting events as well.
In one short week, we were bumping into people we had met, waving and smiling and starting to feel a part of this lovely piece of heaven. We are heading back for a longer stretch so stay tuned.
Accommodations
Olhao Marina Hotel – upscale
Airbnbs- we stayed near the Marina area. Quiet, buildings with rooftop pools
RESTAURANTS – to be updated. There are many amazing restaurants here and the fresh fish is a must. However we didn’t stay long enough to get a proper perspective on the dining scene. So just one reco so far.
Taberna D’Olhao – Try the brandy and orange flamed shrimp.
FUN
Casta Nova wine bar- as mentioned earlier, the owners here know their wine and proud to showcase what the Portuguese winemakers have to offer. It was a highlight of our visit.
Cantaloupe Jazz Cafe- this place was packed and fun. Amazing jazz and located waterside in heart of Olhao.
Looking for Flamingos – they sometimes hang out in the marsh area just past the Marina. They flew over us one day while we were on our balcony. What a sight!!
Boat tour of the Ria Formosa
Local market – it’s huge and full of fresh produce and fish. Just check the prices carefully.
SIDE TRIPS
Tavira – we stayed there briefly during low season and didn’t love it. But we have heard from so many people about how great it is that we may give it another try.
Seville – one of my favourite cities in the world. It’s about a two hour drive away and a great place to tag on a weekend (or week) to your trip. You must go to the Cathedral. See my blog on Seville.
Seville’s history and architecture make this a top destination
STAY TUNED – I will be updating the Algarve page in winter of 2027 when we make our fourth trip. Thanks for dropping by. I hope you love Portugal as much as we do.
