Fishing the waters of New Zealand for the elusive "Mr. Brown"

As we cut through the clouds in the small Bay Heliwork chopper, the sky opens to a stunning view of Hawke’s Bay and the legendary Ruakituri River where the elusive "Mr. Brown" awaits with his own ideas of how the day will unfold.

This fly fishing trip was arranged by John Dick who along with his wife Christine operate the magnificent Greenhill Lodge, a boutique luxury property that sits on 73 lush acres of farmland in the North Island of New Zealand.

The lack of rain has made the rivers low so they want to get me to an area where my odds will be better.

Known for its trophy trout, the best bet seems to be a 45-minute chopper ride to this world class fishing destination which is pronounced "Rooahkitoory".

Pilot Matt Wilson negotiates a smooth landing on a small patch of grass next to a remote area of the river. There are a few sheep that scatter during our landing but no other sign of life.
Once on the ground, I put on waist-high waders that turn out to be both a curse and a blessing.

"Do you mind crossing the river here?" asks my guide Morris Hill.

I don't like the odds of making it across without avoiding an unplanned swim but I nod in agreement.

After several hours of teetering on slippery rocks, and some near falls, I feel my legs start to tire from the weight of these waders.

"On our way back, we will try casting from here as well," he kept saying every few minutes pointing to certain vantage points in the stream.

"And when will that be," I finally ask a bit testily. Picking up that I am ready to go from hiking in this rushing stream to actual fishing, he quickly finds a place to stop.

I figure this is a good time to remind him that I haven't been fly fishing in years. I can cast a hula popper into a northern Ontario lake but catching bass is an entirely different kettle of fish than using a fly rod to land a trout especially while balancing on mossy rocks in a rushing river.

Just the method of casting is an art - well perhaps not in my case. I manage to clear a few branches from nearby trees with my first few casts. Despite my less than graceful style, I still manage to hook a fish. But it wasn't going to be this easy and after a few minutes the line is slack and the fish is gone. 

I can’t go home defeated.

A short while later I am back in the game. I scream at Morris and he yells back at me. "Keep the rod bent, give it line, don't do this don't do that," he shouts, peppering me with instructions.  Not known for my patience, I quickly learn that the art of fly fishing requires an abundance of this attribute.

The fish must tire, the line could easily break and the small fly can easily be spit out. But alas, I finally reel it in and Morris nets the fish. It's a beautiful rainbow trout weighing about two and a half pounds. Not huge but a victory none the less. Morris makes sure the fish is slowly and gently released back into the water. We both agree that catch and release is the best policy.

We make our way back to the chopper to take a break and enjoy the delicious picnic lunch that Christine had packed.

I decide to see what may be lurking in the waters next to our resting area. The first cast is made and I am adjusting my footing while Morris is looking at me to make sure I am okay. We both look up just a little too late. A gigantic brown trout emerges. We open our mouths in awe and even the helicopter pilot who was watching from the shore is now on his feet.

But "Mr. Brown" as I will call him spits out the fly before I can set the hook.

Morris is frantic. He thinks it must be at least eight pounds. (His words not mine – as we all know fisherman like to exaggerate but in this case it seems accurate).

This fish must be caught. He uses his own rod and starts casting.

I turn away heartsick at what I had lost. The fish must be long gone by now. But then Morris shouts "I've got him". The struggle begins.

But this fishing tale becomes just that. The guide loses him too. Brown trout have a way of making you work and this one was clearly a pro,

Back at Greenhill, I regale the others guests with the day's fishing adventure over some fabulous lamb and local New Zealand wine.  While I feel great about the day's adventure and the trout I did catch, I have convinced myself that Mr. Brown had a purpose. He rose above the water to show me what I was missing. He was daring me to come back and try again.

And so I shall Mr. Brown!

Accommodation and meals provided by Greenhill Lodge, travel supported by Hawke’s Bay Tourism

Perhaps because the Queen Mother visited this property back in 1958, Greenhill Lodge owners John and Christine Dick feel all their guests should also be treated like royalty. Whether it's Christine's home-made lemonade served poolside or John's impressive collection of New Zealand wine, no part of the visit is less than first class.

Located in the Hawke’s Bay region of New Zealand, Greenhill has a rich history that began with Archibald Maclean, manager of the Maraekakaho Station. He sought the help of Hawke’s Bay architect George Sollitt to execute his vision back in 1898. In two years, his dream was realized.
Both the building which included such features as ornate pressed-zinc ceilings, delicate hand-painted stained glass and the landscape were designed in impeccable detail. Six of the trees originally planted in the extensive gardens are registered with the Notable Trees Register.

There are only five bedrooms, and elegant carved archways, wood paneling and high ceilings create a grand feel while still maintaining a sense of warmth and home.
www.greenhill.co.nz

Hawke's Bay is a food and wine lover's paradise

For many wine enthusiasts, Sauvignon Blanc and the Marlborough wine region immediately come to mind when you talk about a visit to New Zealand.

For those who are really in the know, a full exploration of the country’s wines demands a visit to Hawke’s Bay. There are more than 100 vineyards and 80 wineries in the area.

It is actually the country’s oldest wine region, the second largest and New Zealand’s leading producer of full-bodied red wines.

Also to my delight, it produces some delicious and complex chardonnays – which I found perfect for those sunny afternoons on the patios of these stunning wineries.

USA born Australian businessman Terry Peabody had committed to his family he would build a family wine business – one that would endure for generations to come. He started his search in France and the US, then to Australia, but it was a visit to Gimblett Gravels in the Hawke’s Bay region that changed everything. 

By 1997 Craggy Range was born.

It hasn’t taken long for the critics to take notice with Wine Enthusiast Magazine naming it the 2014 New World Winery of the Year.

A visit to the winery would not be complete without dining on the patio of the winery’s Terroir Restaurant.  Situated at the base of the Te Mata Peak escarpment, the views are breathtaking.

While the winery is noted for its Prestige Collection including Sophia – a merlot dominated blend- I opted for the Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay, which was paired wonderfully with their pan-fried quail. The Sophia is available in Ontario at select LCBO stores.

Another highlight of the Hawke’s Bay wine region is Black Barn Vineyard, a boutique winery situated near Havelock North village.

Along with producing award-wining Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs, the winery’s Bistro is a hidden oasis, surrounded by vines in the heart of the vineyard.

Plan to make this a long leisurely lunch because it’s hard to leave with the tranquil setting, mouth-watering menu and the world-class wines.

The winery also features an art gallery, amphitheater and, if you want to stay a little longer, the Black Barn Retreats. The self-contained units look out over the vines to the mountains and the ocean.

If you want to really explore the area, Takaro Trails provides cycling tours for all levels of ability. 

The cycling excursion was a great way to get some exercise and wear off my meal while seeing some of the beautiful landscape. However, next time I might pass on that second glass of wine until after the ride is done.

Hawke’s Bay is definitely a food and wine lover’s paradise that offers many outdoor activities, luxury accommodations and perfect weather. For more information visit www.hawkesbaynz.com